In a dining environment that’s increasingly tilted towards tasting menus and prix-fixe-only options, Trestle, the newest project from the team behind Stones Throw and Fat Angel, is something of an anomaly. Like many newcomers, Trestle exclusively offers a nightly fixed price menu, but with a very non-exclusive price tag—only $35 for three courses.
“The main idea is to offer well-executed food at a reasonable price,” said Ryan Cole, one of the five partners in the Hi Neighbor restaurant group, which also includes chef Jason Halverson, Tai Ricci, Jason Kirmse and Cyrick Hia. The group wanted to open a restaurant that looked back to a different way of eating, hence the name Trestle, which references the days of communal dining at a “trestle table.” The restaurant’s motto is “the return to a proper meal,” referencing a time when dining was less about the intricacy of the dishes, and more about the experience of sharing a good meal. The menu focuses on several simple, but precisely executed, courses. “We’re not trying to be different,” said Cole, “It’s comfortable food, but using actual cooking techniques. We aren’t using immersion circulators at Trestle.”
The format was inspired by limited storage and prep areas in Trestle’s space (which was home to Great Hunan for 60 years), which made implementing an extensive menu a challenging proposition. Diners get two choices for each course: the opening menu includes choices like branzino with fregola salad or short-rib pot roast with potato gratin and roasted carrots. If you want to add a pasta course like garganelli bolognese with burrata, it’s only an extra $10. The wine program is also heavy on value, with a big selection of bottles at $50 and under, as well as some splurge-worthy wines at $100 and up. Either way, the markup on wine is capped at $40, which means that diners can try a Grand Cru with dinner for a shockingly reasonable price.
The 1911-era building, set at the intersection of North Beach, Chinatown, Jackson Square and the Financial District, has been given a surprisingly airy atmosphere by Apparatus Architecture. The 49-seat dining room is compact, showcasing original brick walls, support beams and 13-foot ceilings.
Trestle is now accepting reservations; they’re open for dinner Monday-Thursday from 5:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m., Friday-Saturday from 5:30-11:00 p.m. and Sunday from 5:30 p.m.-10:00 p.m.