Trestle, the newest project from the team behind Stones Throw and Fat Angel, is on its way to the corner of Columbus and Jackson. The new spot will take over the space previously occupied by Grand Hunan, which operated there for over 60 years at the busy convergence of the Financial District, Jackson Square, North Beach and Chinatown.
Ryan Cole, Cyrick Hia, Jason Kirmse, Tai Ricci, and executive chef Jason Halverson are all returning from Stones Throw, and the 49-seat restaurant will offer a value-driven concept that will definitely resonate in a sea of expensive new SF restaurants, some of which are among the priciest in the country. A three-course prix-fixe menu will run a very reasonable $35, with an additional pasta course available for $10. Cole says that while he realizes “prix-fixe can appear to take away some of the diner’s choice,” he hopes to reestablish trust between patrons and restaurants and create a great experience that’s missing at many pricey newcomers. “Why spend $35 on an entree somewhere else, when you can have an appetizer, entree and dessert for the same price?” Despite the slim margins, Halverson is also confident he can make the pricing work in his kitchen.
Kirmse, who also heads up the beverage programs at Stones Throw and Fat Angel, is designing an eclectic wine list that also aims to offer exceptional value. One side of the menu will offer a selection of wines that all clock in under $50, while the other will feature bottles for $100 and more. The markup on any bottle won’t exceed $40 (meaning a bottle that’s $100 at the store will run no more than $140 at Trestle), ensuring that diners get value for their wine budgets. While a lack of physical space prohibits a beer list as extensive as those of the group’s other restaurants (Fat Angel has over 200 bottles on hand, and Stones Throw boasts around 50), the beer offerings will still be strong, with an emphasis on food pairing.
The menu is still in the testing phase, but Cole says he’s hoping to get Trestle’s doors open by March. And with prices skyrocketing everywhere else, food as alluring as the price tag could easily make it one of the city’s toughest tickets.